CHASSIS

ADJUSTING THE FRONT DISC BRAKE

There should be no free play at the brake lever end.

1.Check:

  • Brake lever position “a”

  • Brake lever position

    100 mm (3.94 in)

  • Extent of adjustment

    86–105 mm (3.39–4.13 in)

2.Remove:

  • Brake lever cover

3.Adjust:

  • Brake lever position

a.Loosen the locknut “1”.

b.Turn the adjusting bolt “2” until the specified brake lever position is obtained.

c.Tighten the locknut.

  • Locknut

    5 N·m (0.5 kgf·m, 3.7 lb·ft)

A soft or spongy feeling in the brake lever can indicate the presence of air in the brake system. Before the vehicle is operated, the air must be removed by bleeding the brake system. Air in the brake system will considerably reduce braking performance.

After adjusting the brake lever position, make sure there is no brake drag.

4.Install:

  • Brake lever cover

ADJUSTING THE REAR DISC BRAKE

1.Adjust:

  • Brake pedal position

a.Loosen the locknut “1”.

b.Turn the adjusting bolt “2” until the brake pedal is in the correct position.

c.Tighten the locknut.

  • Locknut

    6 N·m (0.6 kgf·m, 4.4 lb·ft)

A soft or spongy feeling in the brake pedal can indicate the presence of air in the brake system. Before running, bleed the brake system. Air in the brake system will cause braking performance to be reduced.

After adjusting the brake pedal position, make sure there is no brake drag.

CHECKING THE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL

1.Stand the vehicle upright on a level surface.

In order to ensure a correct reading of the brake fluid level, make sure that the top of the brake fluid reservoir is horizontal.

2.Check:

  • Brake fluid level

    The minimum level mark “a” or below → Add.

  • Specified brake fluid

    DOT 4

A.

Front brake

B.

Rear brake

  • Use only the designated brake fluid. Other brake fluids may cause the rubber seals to deteriorate, causing leakage and poor brake performance.

  • Refill with the same type of brake fluid that is already in the system. Mixing brake fluids may result in a harmful chemical reaction, leading to poor brake performance.

  • When refilling, be careful that water does not enter the brake fluid reservoir. Water will significantly lower the boiling point of the brake fluid and could cause vapor lock.

Brake fluid may damage painted surfaces and plastic parts. Therefore, always clean up any spilt brake fluid immediately.

CHECKING THE FRONT BRAKE PADS

The following procedure applies to all of the brake pads.

1.Operate the brake.

2.Check:

  • Front brake pad

    Wear indicator grooves “1” almost touch the brake disc → Replace the brake pads as a set.

    Refer to FRONT BRAKE.

CHECKING THE REAR BRAKE PADS

The following procedure applies to all of the brake pads.

1.Operate the brake.

2.Check:

  • Rear brake pad

    Wear indicator grooves “1” almost touch the brake disc → Replace the brake pads as a set.

    Refer to REAR BRAKE.

CHECKING THE FRONT BRAKE HOSE

1.Check:

  • Brake hose

    Cracks/damage/wear → Replace.

2.Check:

  • Brake hose clamp

    Loose connection → Tighten the clamp bolt.

3.Stand the vehicle upright and apply the front brake several times.

4.Check:

  • Brake hose

    Brake fluid leaks → Replace the damaged brake hose.

    Refer to FRONT BRAKE.

CHECKING THE REAR BRAKE HOSE

1.Check:

  • Brake hose

    Cracks/damage/wear → Replace.

2.Check:

  • Brake hose holder

    Loose connection → Tighten the holder bolt.

3.Hold the vehicle upright and apply the rear brake several times.

4.Check:

  • Brake hose

    Brake fluid leakage → Replace the damaged hose.

    Refer to REAR BRAKE.

CHECKING THE BRAKE OPERATION

1.Check:

  • Brake operation

    Brake not working properly → Check the brake system.

    Refer to FRONT BRAKE and REAR BRAKE.

Drive on the dry road, operate the front and rear brakes separately and check to see if the brakes are operating properly.

BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM

Bleed the brake system whenever:

  • The system is disassembled.

  • A brake hose is loosened, disconnected, or replaced.

  • The brake fluid level is very low.

  • Brake operation is faulty.

1.Remove:

  • Brake master cylinder cap

  • Reservoir diaphragm

  • Reservoir float (front brake)

  • Protector (rear brake)

  • Be careful not to spill any brake fluid or allow the reservoir to overflow.

  • Make sure that there is enough brake fluid before applying the brake. Ignoring this precaution could allow air to enter the brake system, considerably lengthening the bleeding procedure.

  • If bleeding is difficult, it may be necessary to let the brake fluid settle for a few hours. Repeat the bleeding procedure when the tiny bubbles in the hose have disappeared.

2.Bleed the brake system.

a.Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the recommended brake fluid.

b.Install the reservoir diaphragm.

c.Connect the plastic hose “1” to the bleed screw “2” securely, and place a container under the end of the plastic hose.

A.

Front

B.

Rear

d.Slowly apply the brake several times.

e.Fully pull the brake lever or fully press down the brake pedal and hold it in position.

f.Loosen the bleed screw.

Loosening the bleed screw will release the pressure in the brake caliper and cause the brake lever to contact the throttle grip or the brake pedal to fully extend.

g.Tighten the bleed screw and then release the brake lever or brake pedal.

h.Repeat steps (d) to (g) until all of the air bubbles have disappeared from the brake fluid in the plastic hose.

During the procedure, keep adding brake fluid to the reservoir.

  • Wipe off any brake fluid on the brake discs, tires, wheels, etc.

  • Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately.

i.Tighten the bleed screw.

  • Bleed screw

    5 N·m (0.5 kgf·m, 3.7 lb·ft)

j.Pour brake fluid to the reservoir up to the specified level.

Refer to CHECKING THE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL.

After bleeding the hydraulic brake system, check the brake operation.

DRIVE CHAIN SLACK

A drive chain that is too tight will overload the engine and other vital parts, and one that is too loose can skip and damage the swingarm or cause an accident. Therefore, keep the drive chain slack within the specified limits.

Checking the drive chain slack

1.Use a maintenance stand to raise the rear wheel off the ground.

Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

2.Shift the transmission into the neutral position.

3.Pull the drive chain up above the drive chain guide installation bolt with a force of about 50 N (5.0 kgf, 37 lbf).

4.Check:

  • Drive chain slack “a”

    Out of specification → Regulate.

Measure drive chain slack between the drive chain guide and the bottom of the chain as shown.

  • Drive chain slack (Maintenance Stand)

    50.0–60.0 mm (1.97–2.36 in)

Adjusting the drive chain slack

Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

1.Adjust:

  • Drive chain slack

a.Loosen the wheel axle nut “1”.

b.Loosen both locknuts “2”.

c.Turn the adjusting bolt “3” until the specified drive chain slack is obtained.

  • To maintain the proper wheel alignment, adjust both sides evenly.

  • Push the rear wheel forward to make sure that there is no clearance between the swingarm end plates and the ends of the swingarm.

d.Tighten the wheel axle nut.

  • Wheel axle nut

    135 N·m (13.5 kgf·m, 100 lb·ft)

e.Tighten the drive chain puller locknut.

  • Drive chain puller locknut

    21 N·m (2.1 kgf·m, 15 lb·ft)

LUBRICATING THE DRIVE CHAIN

The drive chain consists of many interacting parts. If the drive chain is not maintained properly, it will wear out quickly. Therefore, the drive chain should be serviced, especially when the vehicle is used in dusty areas.

This vehicle has a drive chain with small rubber O-rings between each side plate. Steam cleaning, high-pressure washing, certain solvents, and the use of a coarse brush can damage these O-rings. Therefore, use only kerosene to clean the drive chain. Wipe the drive chain dry and thoroughly lubricate it with engine oil or chain lubricant that is suitable for O-ring chains. Do not use any other lubricants on the drive chain since they may contain solvents that could damage the O-rings.

  • Recommended lubricant

    Chain lubricant suitable for O-ring chains

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE STEERING HEAD

1.Use a maintenance stand to raise the front wheel off the ground.

Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

2.Check:

  • Steering head

    Grasp the bottom of the front fork legs and gently rock the front fork.

    Blinding/looseness → Adjust the steering head.

3.Remove:

4.Adjust:

  • Steering head

a.Remove the washer “1”.

b.After loosening the ring nut “2” with a steering nut wrench “3”, tighten it to the specified torque.

  • Set the torque wrench at a right angle to the steering nut wrench.

  • Move the steering to the left and right a couple of times to check that it moves smoothly.

  • Steering nut wrench

    90890-01403

  • Exhaust flange nut wrench

    YU-A9472

  • Ring nut (initial tightening torque)

    38 N·m (3.8 kgf·m, 28 lb·ft)

c.Turn the front fork to the right and left a few times, and make sure that the steering rotates smoothly. If it does not turn smoothly, remove the lower bracket and check the upper and lower bearings.

Refer to STEERING HEAD.

d.Loosen the ring nut fully turn and then tighten it to specification with a steering nut wrench.

Do not overtighten the lower ring nut.

  • Ring nut (final tightening torque)

    7 N·m (0.7 kgf·m, 5.2 lb·ft)

e.Check the steering head for looseness or binding by turning the front fork all the way in both directions. If any binding is felt, remove the lower bracket and check the upper and lower bearings.

Refer to STEERING HEAD.

f.Install the washer “1”.

5.Install:

LUBRICATING THE STEERING HEAD

1.Lubricate:

  • Upper bearing

  • Lower bearing

  • Bearing race

  • Recommended lubricant

    Lithium-soap-based grease

CHECKING THE FRONT FORK LEGS

1.Stand the vehicle upright on a level surface.

Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

2.Check:

  • Inner tube

    Damage/scratches → Replace.

  • Front fork leg

    Oil leaks between inner tube and outer tube → Replace the oil seal.

3.Hold the vehicle upright and apply the front brake.

4.Check:

  • Front fork operation

    Push down hard on the handlebar several times and check if the front fork rebounds smoothly.

    Unsmooth operation → Correct or replace.

    Refer to FRONT FORK.

5.Check:

  • Protector guide “1”

    Out of specification → Replace.

The protector guide reaches the limit of its use when it is worn down to the same height “a” as of the outer tube circumference.

6.Remove:

  • Protector

  • Dust seal “1”

Be careful not to damage the dust seal and the inner tube by a driver.

7.Clean:

  • Dust seal “a”

  • Scraper “b”

  • Oil seal “c”

  • Clean the dust seal, scraper and oil seal after every run.

  • Apply lithium-soap-based grease on the inner tube.

ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK LEGS

  • Always adjust the left and right front forks evenly. If this is not done, the vehicle may have poor stability.

  • Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

Rebound damping

Do not turn the adjuster forcibly beyond its adjusting range.

1.Adjust:

  • Rebound damping

a.Turn the adjuster “1” in the direction of “a” or “b” to make an adjustment.

  • Direction “a”

    Rebound damping is increased (suspension is harder).

  • Direction “b”

    Rebound damping is decreased (suspension is softer).

Rebound damping

  • Minimum (soft)

    20 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Standard

    7 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Maximum (hard)

    0 click(s) in direction “b”*

*With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction “a”

Although the total number of clicks of a damping force adjusting mechanism may not exactly match the above specifications due to small differences in production, the actual number of clicks always represents the entire adjusting range. To obtain a precise adjustment, it would be advisable to check the number of clicks of each damping force adjusting mechanism and to modify the specifications as necessary.

Compression damping

Do not turn the adjuster forcibly beyond its adjusting range.

1.Adjust:

  • Compression damping

a.Turn the adjuster “1” in the direction of “a” or “b” to make an adjustment.

  • Direction “a”

    Compression damping is increased (suspension is harder).

  • Direction “b”

    Compression damping is decreased (suspension is softer).

Compression damping

  • Minimum (soft)

    20 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Standard

    11 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Maximum (hard)

    0 click(s) in direction “b”*

*With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction “a”

Although the total number of clicks of a damping force adjusting mechanism may not exactly match the above specifications due to small differences in production, the actual number of clicks always represents the entire adjusting range. To obtain a precise adjustment, it would be advisable to check the number of clicks of each damping force adjusting mechanism and to modify the specifications as necessary.

Air bleeding from front fork

If the front fork initial movement feels stiff during a run, relieve the front fork internal pressure.

1.Use a maintenance stand to raise the front wheel off the ground.

Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

2.Remove the bleed screw “1” and release the internal pressure from the front fork.

3.Tighten:

  • Bleed screw

    • Bleed screw

      1.3 N·m (0.13 kgf·m, 0.95 lb·ft)

CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY

1.Stand the vehicle upright on a level surface.

Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

2.Check:

3.Check:

  • Rear shock absorber assembly smooth action

  • Rear suspension link smooth action

    Sit astride the seat and shake your body up and down several times to check whether the rear shock absorber assembly operates smoothly.

    Unsmooth operation → Correct or replace.

    Refer to REAR SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY.

ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY

Use a maintenance stand to raise the rear wheel off the ground.

Securely support the vehicle so that there is no danger of it falling over.

Spring preload

Do not turn the adjuster forcibly beyond its adjusting range.

1.Adjust:

  • Spring preload

a.Loosen the locknut “1”.

b.Loosen the adjuster “2” until there is some clearance between the spring and the adjuster.

c.Measure the spring free length “a”.

d.Turn the adjuster in the direction of “b” or “c” to make an adjustment.

  • Direction “b”

    Spring preload is increased (suspension is harder).

  • Direction “c”

    Spring preload is decreased (suspension is softer).

Spring preload adjusting positions

  • Minimum

    Position in which the spring is turned in 1.5 mm (0.06 in) from its free length.

  • Standard

    Position in which the spring is turned in 9.0 mm (0.35 in) from its free length.

  • Maximum

    Position in which the spring is turned in 18.0 mm (0.71 in) from its free length.

  • Be sure to remove all dirt and mud from around the locknut and adjusting ring before adjustment.

  • The length of the spring (installed) changes 1.5 mm (0.06 in) per turn of the adjusting ring.

e.Tighten the locknut.

Rebound damping

Do not turn the adjuster forcibly beyond its adjusting range.

1.Adjust:

  • Rebound damping

a.Turn the adjuster “1” in the direction of “a” or “b” to make an adjustment.

  • Direction “a”

    Rebound damping is increased (suspension is harder).

  • Direction “b”

    Rebound damping is decreased (suspension is softer).

Rebound damping

  • Minimum (soft)

    30 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Standard

    11 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Maximum (hard)

    0 click(s) in direction “b”*

*With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction “a”

Although the total number of clicks of a damping force adjusting mechanism may not exactly match the above specifications due to small differences in production, the actual number of clicks always represents the entire adjusting range. To obtain a precise adjustment, it would be advisable to check the number of clicks of each damping force adjusting mechanism and to modify the specifications as necessary.

Compression damping (for fast compression damping)

Do not turn the adjuster forcibly beyond its adjusting range.

1.Adjust:

  • Compression damping (for fast compression damping)

a.Turn the adjuster “1” in the direction of “a” or “b” to make an adjustment.

  • Direction “a”

    Compression damping is increased (suspension is harder).

  • Direction “b”

    Compression damping is decreased (suspension is softer).

Fast compression damping

  • Minimum (soft)

    2 turn(s) in direction “b”*

  • Standard

    1+1/2 turn(s) in direction “b”*

  • Maximum (hard)

    0 turn(s) in direction “b”*

*With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction “a”

To obtain a precise adjustment, it is advisable to check the actual total number of turns of the damping force adjusting mechanism. This adjustment range may not exactly match the specifications listed due to small differences in production.

Compression damping (for slow compres-sion damping)

Do not turn the adjuster forcibly beyond its adjusting range.

1.Adjust:

  • Compression damping (for slow compression damping)

a.Turn the adjuster “1” in the direction of “a” or “b” to make an adjustment.

  • Direction “a”

    Compression damping is increased (suspension is harder).

  • Direction “b”

    Compression damping is decreased (suspension is softer).

Slow compression damping

  • Minimum (soft)

    20 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Standard

    10 click(s) in direction “b”*

  • Maximum (hard)

    0 click(s) in direction “b”*

*With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction “a”

Although the total number of clicks of a damping force adjusting mechanism may not exactly match the above specifications due to small differences in production, the actual number of clicks always represents the entire adjusting range. To obtain a precise adjustment, it would be advisable to check the number of clicks of each damping force adjusting mechanism and to modify the specifications as necessary.

CHECKING THE SWINGARM OPERATION

1.Check:

  • Swingarm smooth action

  • Swingarm free play

    Refer to SWINGARM.

LUBRICATING THE SWINGARM PIVOT

1.Lubricate:

  • Oil seal

  • Collar

  • Recommended lubricant

    Lithium-soap-based grease

Refer to INSTALLING THE SWINGARM.

CHECKING THE CONNECTING ARM AND RELAY ARM

Refer to CHECKING THE CONNECTING ARM AND RELAY ARM.

CHECKING THE TIRES

1.Measure:

  • Tire pressure

    Out of specification → Regulate.

Tire air pressure (measured on cold tires)

  • Front

    100 kPa (1.00 kgf/cm², 15 psi)

  • Rear

    100 kPa (1.00 kgf/cm², 15 psi)

  • Check the tire while it is cold.

  • Because if the bead stopper tightening nut is loose when the tire pressure is low, the tire could slip off the rim, thus be sure to check and tighten the bead stopper tightening nut “a”.

  • If the tire valve stem “b” is found tilted, the tire is considered to be slipping off its position. Correct the tire position.

a.

Bead stopper tightening nut

b.

Tire valve stem

CHECKING AND TIGHTENING THE SPOKES

1.Check:

  • Spoke

    Bend/damage → Replace.

    Loose → Tighten.

    Tap the spokes with a screwdriver.

A tight spoke will emit a clear, ringing tone; a loose spoke will sound flat.

2.Tighten:

  • Spoke

    (with a spoke nipple wrench “1”)

  • Spoke nipple wrench (6–7)

    90890-01521

  • Spoke nipple wrench (6–7)

    YM-01521

  • Spoke

    2.5 N·m (0.25 kgf·m, 1.8 lb·ft)

  • Do not give a half turn (180°) or more for one tightening.

  • Make sure that tightening after a break-in is done until the initial looseness in nipples disappears.

  • Make sure that tightening is done in stages, not at a time.

CHECKING THE WHEELS

1.Check:

  • Wheel

    Damage/out-of-round → Replace.

Never attempt to make any repairs to the wheel.

CHECKING THE WHEEL BEARINGS

1.Check:

CHECKING THE CHASSIS FASTENERS

Make sure that all nuts, bolts, and screws are properly tightened.

Refer to CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUES.

CHECKING AND LUBRICATING THE CABLES

The following procedure applies to all of the inner and outer cables.

Damaged outer cable may cause the cable to corrode and interfere with its movement. Replace damaged outer cable and inner cables as soon as possible.

1.Check:

  • Outer cable

    Damage → Replace.

2.Check:

  • Cable operation

    Rough movement → Lubricate.

  • Recommended lubricant

    Engine oil or a suitable cable lubricant

Hold the cable end upright and pour a few drops of lubricant into the cable sheath or use a suitable lubricating device.

LUBRICATING THE BRAKE LEVER

1.Lubricate the pivoting points and metal-to-metal moving parts of the following parts.

  • Brake lever

  • Recommended lubricant

    Silicone grease

LUBRICATING THE CLUTCH LEVER

1.Lubricate the pivoting points and metal-to-metal moving parts of the following parts.

  • Clutch lever

  • Recommended lubricant

    Lithium-soap-based grease

LUBRICATING THE PEDAL

1.Lubricate the pivoting point and metal-to-metal moving parts of the pedal.

  • Recommended lubricant

    Lithium-soap-based grease

CHECKING THE SIDESTAND

1.Check:

  • Sidestand operation

    Check that the sidestand moves smoothly.

    Rough movement → Repair or replace.

LUBRICATING THE SIDESTAND

Lubricate the pivoting point and metal-to-metal moving parts of the sidestand.

  • Recommended lubricant

    Lithium-soap-based grease